Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Bistro Zinc

56 Church Street
Lenox, MA 01240-2554
(413) 637-8800

On my last day of my five day retreat, I planned to treat myself to lunch at Nudel, a new restaurant in Lenox where the shtick is that the menu is planned regularly around available local ingredients. People seem to love this place, and it's tiny, so I figured a lunch before the season started would be perfect. Alas, due to construction around the corner, they closed for lunch today! Alta across the street was bustling and although I am very fond of it, I decided to try something different and headed down Church Street.

Bistro Zinc is just a minute away and although I had a disappointingly mediocre experience there several years ago, I figured it was time to try it again. If there is one thing I have learned on this trip is that if I have a mediocre memory of a restaurant, listen to my gut and leave it a memory!

As I remembered, it is a pleasant, bright space, with white butcher paper tablecloths, lots of lights, a polished tin ceiling - very bistro-esque. There were a few parties although it was not crowded, and there were two women seated in the window who appeared to be on the board of some cultural institution as several other diners came over to say hello (yes, I do eavesdrop when I dine alone). So it's that kind of "ladies who lunch" kind of vibe.

The server was a super nice young woman, but although she took my order promptly, it took about 15 minutes for my glass of rose to appear, right before my moules frites. The frites were excellent and the mussels were fine - although if you take the trouble to prepare them properly, I don't think it's magic to produce mussels in a nice broth. The broth was acceptable but nothing to write home about - in fact, as I am sitting here writing this five hours later, I really can't speculate on what was in the broth except perhaps for some coconut milk. After a few minutes, the server came back and asked if I would like some bread for the broth and after hesitating figured why not - as this is a French bistro, why not see what the baguette is like?

And this is where the food took a headlong dive down. In an area featuring Richard Bourdain's Berkshire Mountain Bakery, which produces truly fine breads, including wonderful baguettes, there is no excuse for the sad, stale role I was presented. It was cut in four pieces, and was so stale as to be nearly a crouton. Even if it was not stale, it seemed to have a consistency closer to a farmer's white than a French baguette. I don't know if this was their special "stale bread for dipping in moules broth" but I doubt it. You call yourselves a French restaurant?

And then there was the final insult - the pot de creme. I ordered a cappuccino (excellent, by the way) and the espresso chocolate pot de creme. I always order it when I see it on a menu, as I see it so rarely. It arrived, more of a pot de fudge than a pot de creme. When your spoon hits resistance on a little terrine of pot de creme, you know you are in for trouble. Rather than the delicate, barely-set chocolate custard it should have been, it was dense as a piece of Fluff quick fudge. So disappointing. Again - anyone check the recipe from a real French bistro?

I am happy to pay for a good meal. I felt very disappointed in Bistro Zinc and that $33.50 plus tip - just not worth it. I should have walked a few blocks down to Haven Bakery and had one of their transformative grilled cheese sandwiches instead.

Monday, June 21, 2010

Napa

Napa Wine Bar and Restaurant
293 Main Street
Great Barrington, MA 01230
413-528-4311

I had lunch at Napa today (and why is a restaurant in the Berkshires called Napa, you ask? good question). Napa replaced a restaurant called Union a few years ago, but I had never tried it since it changed owners. I remember Union as being mediocre and trying too hard, plus having bad service. But why not give Napa a try?

Well, it was mediocre and had bad service. I arrived a little before 1pm and received my meal at 1:30. It took about 15 minutes for some bread to be delivered (I wasn't expecting it, but I was glad as it took so long to get my sandwich). It took about 30 minutes to get a chicken salad BLT. It was in the "OK" category of chicken salad. I prefer chicken salad with big chunks of chicken, some interesting additions such as walnuts or almonds, grapes or cranberries, and a very light dressing, rather than the deli variety with shredded chicken, heavy on the mayo. This was somewhere in between. The dressing was a little too heavy but the chicken tasted fresh. It had celery, purple onion, and tiny carrot bits which added nothing to the flavor. Since it was pretty dead, I wondered if perhaps the chicken salad had been prepared to order, but I think that is being rather charitable. It came with some passable fries that were "handcut" but I suspect they were "handcut" by someone else other than in the kitchen at Napa.

For a $12 sandwich and a 30 minute wait, it was not awesome.

Given the number of excellent restaurant choices in downtown Great Barrington, and at either end of Route 7 going in and out of town, I see little reason for visiting Napa again - unless it means northern California.

Saturday, June 5, 2010

Wards Nursery

600 Main Street
Great Barrington, MA 01230-2010
(413) 528-2884
www.wardsnursery.com

Memorial Day weekend was the start for me of serious gardening. Last summer, I was more intent on the inside of the house than the outside - and let me tell you, my backyard was a small, neglected, hillside mess. But perhaps more on that process later.

Since I had to get plants and supplies, I figured from some cursory research that Ward's Nursery in Great Barrington would be the most full-service garden center. And I think I was right - I went there last weekend, and then checked out Dr Lahey's in Lenox today - Ward's definitely has a far greater, and more organized, selection, that Dr L's.

The place was crawling with help and we got some very needed assistance about which hydrangeas to choose, as well as tips to keep bears away (no birdseed/feeders - they love it) and which grass seed to choose for a bald patch in the back. We were asked several more times if we needed help. When I was at Dr Lahey's today, I didn't see a single attendant.

The plants were very well organized into annuals and perennials, and then alphabetically. They had helpful sheets available that gave the some cross-references - "catmint" could be found under "nepeta", for ex. - as plants often have colloquial names and then their "real" names.

Inside, they have every kind of garden supply you might want, and plenty of gifts as well.

Thus far the hydrangeas and other plants we bought to get started have hung on this week and seem to be doing well (fingers crossed). I will definitely be heading back to Ward's as I keep uncovering the tangle that used to be the terraced garden in the backyard and replant it with some colorful (and hardy - hardy is very important!) perennials.

Pho Sai Gon

5 Railroad Street
Lee, MA 01238-1637
(413) 243-6288

Pho Sai Gon has become a good option for me when I've been up here for dinner on my own. They are quick and cheap (for the Berkshires), and the food is reasonably tasty. The restaurant space is small and simple, with a giant, ancient television taking up one corner of the wall space. I have only done take out, so I haven't had a chance to study the decor for long, but it ain't fancy - definitely the place for a quick meal before a movie or play, not a place for three courses of entertainment.

I have eaten some truly superb Vietnamese food in Boston and New York - and this is not it. But the crispy spring rolls are true to their name, and have a pork filling with a bit of a spicy kick. I have had pork with rice, and the pork with vermicelli thus far as entrees. The rice was satisfyingly sticky but not mushy. The pork in both cases was not melt in your mouth but flavorful and tender enough. All in all, I think I preferred the vermicelli as the vegetables that came with the rice dish were undercooked and hard to eat.

Thus far, the best option in the Lee area for anything in the Vietnamese/Thai/Chinese family.

Locker Room Sports Pub

232 Main Street
Lee, MA 01238
http://www.townoflee.com/business_pages/lockerroom/index.asp

The Locker Room is about a block from my house. I've been walking by it for a year, and my former neighbors, who were the type to grill handcrafted boar sausage in the summer time, told me not to count it out even if it doesn't look like a promising culinary experience.

I finally got there Memorial Day weekend for lunch. It is definitely not a "gastro-pub" - it's straight up burgers, dogs, wings, etc. However, they also offer a few upgrades - grilled kielbasa, real turkey breast on their club, not deli meat. The burger I had was hand-packed and well-cooked and the pickles on the burger were dills cut into small pieces rather than soggy "chips." I had a side of half fries, half onion rings. The fries had a spicy coating and the onion rings were of the puffy, beer-battered variety. Both were crisp and hot. My mom, who has a thing about portions being so large as to be unappetizing, ordered two "mini dogs" ($1 each) rather than the foot long option. As a hot dog connoisseur, she approved. My dad had the head-turning grilled chicken sandwich with... mustard and sauerkraut (his add-ons). He gave it a thumbs up.

I am very curious about their pizza. I asked the server his opinion and he raved unequivocally. We shall see. I have yet to find a fabulous pizza away from Baba Louie's in Great Barrington - I will update once I sample what the Locker Room has on offer in this arena!

Sullivan Station

Railroad Street
Lee, MA 01238
413-243-2082
www.sullivanstationrestaurant.com

There are several reasons to have lunch or dinner at Sullivan Station. The first is if you are interested in trains. The restaurant is a beautifully preserved 19th century train station, from back in the days when Edith Wharton alighted one stop down in Lenox. The second is if your kid(s) loves trains. It's a very family friendly atmosphere, with a children's menu. Now, my nieces both began to turn their noses up at children's menu options about the age of six, but perhaps your little ones are less snobby.

Unfortunately, the main draw is not the food. While it is cheaper than many Berkshire options, the entrees are still in the upper teens - mid twenties range - and for the quality of the cooking, it belongs in a solidly mid-teens category. An example of the type of cuisine offered is their Sullivan Station special chicken - chicken on a bed of spinach with swiss cheese and... raspberry sauce. Doesn't this sound like it belongs in a cookbook next to a recipe for a Jell-O mold?

Fortunately, the food is middling, not inedible. Entrees come with a dinner salad or soup and the night we had dinner, the soup was a very tasty vegetable bisque. The dinner salad was of spring greens, not iceberg. The bread was hot, with a nutty, multigrain flavor. I got a strip steak and asked for it medium rare - it came on the rare side and it was chewy, towards downright tough in parts. What I really wanted was the baked potato, which was satisfying, with a side of sour cream brought with it. Sauteed spring vegetables - mostly carrots and zucchini - were oppressively garlicy. My mom got the Amber Chicken, which she needed a steak knife to cut - enough said. My dad had a sauteed scallop special and he ate everything, saying the scallops were done perfectly.

For dessert, I had the bread pudding, which had too many raisins for my taste (raisins should be an accent, not the main event, in a bread pudding). My parents both had frozen yogurt.

We arrived very early, right when they opened at 5, and by the time we left to catch a movie, the place was packed. It's not very big and I would suggest reservations in the evening. I would also suggest perhaps going the sandwich route if you dine here - I suspect a hamburger would be a good choice.